An ancient land full of wonders

Here's why Botswana's Kalahari is not your average safari destination...

It's a desert with a difference that sprawls across most of Botswana, spilling into neighbouring Namibia and South Africa, featuring a mosaic of ecosystems sculpted by wind, water and time. This is the Kalahari, a vast arid to semi-arid wilderness that's aeons old and ever evolving, filled with specially adapted fauna and flora and home to Africa's First People, the San...

Millions of years ago, the Kalahari was a lush landscape with sprawling lakes and rivers. The remnants of this ancient past are evident in the fossilised riverbeds that crisscross the land and the vast Makgadikgadi Pans in the centre of Botswana, the world's largest salt pans, formed by the evaporation of a giant prehistoric lake. 

Boundless horizons

The Kalahari is vast, covering 900,000 square kilometres and its name is derived from the Tswana word kgala, meaning "the great thirst" and kgalagadi meaning "a waterless place" thanks to its large areas covered by red sand without permanent surface water. 

It's these layers of red sand, deposited by ancient winds, that have sculpted the rolling dunes that have become synonymous with the Kalahari. Rather than being a true desert in the way the Namib in neighbouring Namibia is, the Kalahari is semi-arid and in certain regions where rainfall and subterranean water is more plentiful, its dunes have become covered with grasses, low scrub and, in places, woodland, creating extensive savannahs in what's known as the Green Kalahari. 

These savannahs provide excellent grazing after good rains, supporting more animals and plants than a true desert does. Rainfall is generally scarce - the driest areas usually get around 200mm of rain per year and the wettest a little over 500mm. The surrounding Kalahari Basin covers 2,5-million square kilometres and extends to include parts of Angola, Zambia and Zimbabwe and is connected to the Zambezi Basin. It's here that the Okavango River empties its floodwaters every year, forming the Okavango Delta with its annual inundation.

Underlying the Kalahari's sands lie rich diamond and mineral deposits, a testament to the Kalahari's fascinating geological history. Here in Botswana, it's these diamonds that have put the country on the map and underpinned its economy, along with tourism.

A place of extremes

Like everything else in this thirsty land, the Kalahari's climate is one of extremes. Days can be scorching in the summer months (December to February) with temperatures hitting 45 deg C in the hottest regions. Nighttime is cooler, dropping to an average of 25 deg C. In the winter months (June to September) it can drop to freezing at night, with warm, sunny days usually somewhere in the mid 20 deg C range.

Rainfall is erratic and unpredictable, with long periods of drought punctuated by sudden, intense downpours and storms that can cause flash floods. This variability shapes the entire ecosystem. Plants have adapted to conserve water, with drought-resistant species like thorny acacia trees and succulents dominating the landscape. 

Animals have evolved remarkable strategies for surviving the harsh conditions. Indeed, the Kalahari teems with life. Large predators like lions, cheetahs and leopards make the Kalahari their home, while elusive spotted and brown hyenas scavenge in the shadows. Desert-adapted elephants also manage to survive the challenging environment, as do antelope like kudu, gemsbok (oryx) and impala. Zebras are also plentiful. 

On the smaller end of the mammal spectrum, meerkats and their cousins the mongooses are at home in the Kalahari. Smaller creatures like burrowing owls and scorpions find refuge in the sands, while specialist birds like the ostrich, kori bustard and secretary bird have evolved to thrive here.

In harmony with nature

For millennia, Africa's First People - the San Bushmen - have called the Kalahari home. These hunter-gatherers possess an intimate understanding of the desert's rhythms and resources. They have developed sophisticated tracking skills and a deep respect for the land. 

Their traditional knowledge, passed down through generations, is a testament to human resilience and adaptation in one of Earth's most challenging environments. Today, the San people face challenges as their traditional way of life is increasingly impacted by modernisation. 

However, Feline Fields, with the help of the Feline Fields Trust, is working with our local Ju/'hoansi Bushmen to help them preserve their culture and ensure their continued presence in the Kalahari. Supporting the San people and their traditional knowledge can provide valuable insights into sustainable living in a fragile environment.



A different kind of safari

As a safari destination there is nowhere in Africa quite like the Kalahari. It's possessed of a unique, stark beauty that takes the breath away. Remote, wild and intrinsically unchanged for untold millennia, it's a testament to nature's resilience and the power of adaptation. Exploring it reveals hidden gems and immerses visitors in one of the last remaining authentic wilderness areas on the continent. 

There's more to the Kalahari than just searching for animals. You have to scratch below the surface to appreciate the magic this land contains, paying attention to its ancient geology, its climate swings and the remarkable array of life it sustains, from the smallest insect to mega fauna like the African elephant.

Helping travellers to understand its many facets is essential to them appreciating its importance and helping to ensure its future. As we learn more about this captivating region, we gain valuable lessons about living in harmony with nature in a world facing increasing environmental challenges. 

With the San Bushmen as our guides, Feline Fields is becoming a champion of the Kalahari cause, introducing tourism to an expansive swathe of wilderness in north-western Botswana that has never been exposed to it, pioneering as we go. At Feline Fields Lodge we have created a retreat that gives guests the opportunity to discover the Kalahari's secrets and fall in love with this magical place.